From Fort Cochin we took a local bus to Allapuzha, taking local transport really adds to travelling experience and I sometimes prefer it to being boxed in to tourist air conned buses watching the world like an outsider. On Indian buses couples can sit together but men and women without partners are seperated. It feels reassuring and safe to be squuezed in amongst the extremely friendly Indian women and accepted when they give my one of their children to craddle on my lap.
It's torrential rain throughout journey and when we arrive into Alllapuzha but with a stroke of luck it clears up enough so we can explore Kerela's famous backwaters by boat. The backwaters are unfortunately getting poluted by tourist visitors and its a duality that I often struggle with when travelling that on one hand by visiting places I am bringing income to the area but on the other hand I am causing environmental damage and disturbing the people who are not living off tourist trade. I think for any future travel I may do I would prefer to visit places for longer to be able to make an informed judgement about what to do and what may help rather than passing through to see all the highlights.
Travelling through the backwaters we then stay overnight at a homestay on the river bank with a lovely lady called Sudha and her brother. Sudha cooks us a range of traditional Kerelan dishes, and the others enjoy little fishes caught fresh from river, and get stuck in eating with our hands.
Having missed a day's practice due to travelling I rise early the next day for a complete 2hrs session on the river bank, its hot which helps open into postures. After breakfast at our homestay we jump aboard a houseboat to continue travelling south through the backwaters down to Kollum. It passes where the river meets the ocean and there are big, colourful fishing boats and Chinese fishing nets in action, attracting swarms of birds. We relax on the boat taking in the scenery, playing cards and are treated to big buffets of Kerelan food. We moore up on the water to sleep the night.
I wake up early to do a 2hr vinyasa flow practice on the deck of the boat as the beautiful morning light reflects on the waters. Then we arrive into Kollum, its a bright, bright sunshinny day so we decide to head to Varkala beach. Adam uses his brilliant batering skills to score two tuks tuks to take us direct for same price it would take us all to catch local buses. It's a great drive through Kerelan jungly countryside, brightly coloured temples and houses and we are giddily excited by first sights of the ocean and Varkala's dramatic red cliffs. We find beach huts not far from the beach and head straight there for a swim in the big rolling waves. I don't mean to judge on looks but one thing is for sure Varkala beach is full of good looking young people (unfortunately mainly couples!) strolling around with yogic bodies.
The place to be that night was the Chill Out lounge so we headed there after dinner like everyone else we saw on the beach that day to join in the open mic night, watch the fire poi, dance and relax on the big cushions.
I wake up with a dodgy stomach, I had been suprising lucky with only been ill once in whole trip so far and I put that down to taking grapefruit seed extract in water which supports stomach and digestive system. Varkala is filled with Ayurvedic Clinics and the day before I had popped into a couple to speak to the Dr's and get an idea of how they prescribe treatments. I was a disappointed that they seemed just to push to sell treatments rather than working to identify dosha and any healthcare issues etc
So as I strolled the cliff top I was really drawn to follow a sign off the path to an ayurvedic Dr. Abin S.R at the S.M Ayurveda Panchakarma and Yoga Therapy Centre. He was busy seeing a somebody and so I waited outside for 20 minutes while he consulted a patient without any pressure to book treatment. Then when I finally had chance to meet him I felt I could trust him as he had clearest, purest eyes and glowing skin and radiated health. He was calm and open and asked health and personal questions with astute detail. He gave me some ayurvedic herbs for my stomach problems (one which tasted vile and one that smelt vile) and said to eat only plain rice for next day or two.
In consultation with him we decided it would be best for me to do booked a full body massage and Shirodhara treatment in which warm oil is poured onto the third eye/forehead and helps to alleviate sleeplessness and good for the mind and intuition.
See forthcoming post on Ayurveda for further information.
Sivananda Yoga with Vasu at Bohemium Masala
I felt much better by the evening and the next day I woke up full of life and headed to a Sivananda yoga class with Vasu at the Bohemium Masala which several people had recommended. The Shala is set in secluded gardens so you can listen to sounds of nature when you practice. I get there early to do half hour kriya meditation before class. Vasu has a melodic voice, almost singing through the surya namaskas. Sivananda takes a very different sequencing of postures to my usual vinyasa flow which I don't understand but I am happy to mix up my practice, especially with a good teacher. I also I appreciated Vasu working with my on Scorpion encouraging me to arch back more to find the balance. The class ended with nadi shodhana and kapalabhathi.
Janardana Swami Hindi Temple
Later I wandered to the ornately decorated, colourful Janardana Swami Hindi Temple which is said to be 2000 years old and is an important Vaishnavite shrine. It was nice to be reminded that I really sm in india as Varkala is touristy though not in a brash or bad way. I was the only westerner amongst the hustle and bustle of locals eating thalis and offering prayers. Non Hindu's are not allowed in the temple but I took time to meditate and allowed chants to come to me for Shiva and Ganesh.
I walked back via the south end of the beach which I had read was a pilgrimage point for Hindu's to scatter their cremated ashes with the belief that the properties of the holy waters will extend to the soulds of the departed ones but I didn't see any signs of burial activity/pilgrimage on this occasion. I felt that as local Indians are unfortunately moved on from the northern end of the beach that it wasn't fair for me to then linger on their scared spot.
Varkala is yet another spot in India I would happily spend more time as has a wonderful vibe and overflowing with yoga and ayurveda. I hope to return sometime to do a full Panchakarma atleast 10 day treatment whereby can fully detox the body and undertake all the ayurvedic therapies.
It's torrential rain throughout journey and when we arrive into Alllapuzha but with a stroke of luck it clears up enough so we can explore Kerela's famous backwaters by boat. The backwaters are unfortunately getting poluted by tourist visitors and its a duality that I often struggle with when travelling that on one hand by visiting places I am bringing income to the area but on the other hand I am causing environmental damage and disturbing the people who are not living off tourist trade. I think for any future travel I may do I would prefer to visit places for longer to be able to make an informed judgement about what to do and what may help rather than passing through to see all the highlights.
Travelling through the backwaters we then stay overnight at a homestay on the river bank with a lovely lady called Sudha and her brother. Sudha cooks us a range of traditional Kerelan dishes, and the others enjoy little fishes caught fresh from river, and get stuck in eating with our hands.
Having missed a day's practice due to travelling I rise early the next day for a complete 2hrs session on the river bank, its hot which helps open into postures. After breakfast at our homestay we jump aboard a houseboat to continue travelling south through the backwaters down to Kollum. It passes where the river meets the ocean and there are big, colourful fishing boats and Chinese fishing nets in action, attracting swarms of birds. We relax on the boat taking in the scenery, playing cards and are treated to big buffets of Kerelan food. We moore up on the water to sleep the night.
I wake up early to do a 2hr vinyasa flow practice on the deck of the boat as the beautiful morning light reflects on the waters. Then we arrive into Kollum, its a bright, bright sunshinny day so we decide to head to Varkala beach. Adam uses his brilliant batering skills to score two tuks tuks to take us direct for same price it would take us all to catch local buses. It's a great drive through Kerelan jungly countryside, brightly coloured temples and houses and we are giddily excited by first sights of the ocean and Varkala's dramatic red cliffs. We find beach huts not far from the beach and head straight there for a swim in the big rolling waves. I don't mean to judge on looks but one thing is for sure Varkala beach is full of good looking young people (unfortunately mainly couples!) strolling around with yogic bodies.
The place to be that night was the Chill Out lounge so we headed there after dinner like everyone else we saw on the beach that day to join in the open mic night, watch the fire poi, dance and relax on the big cushions.
I wake up with a dodgy stomach, I had been suprising lucky with only been ill once in whole trip so far and I put that down to taking grapefruit seed extract in water which supports stomach and digestive system. Varkala is filled with Ayurvedic Clinics and the day before I had popped into a couple to speak to the Dr's and get an idea of how they prescribe treatments. I was a disappointed that they seemed just to push to sell treatments rather than working to identify dosha and any healthcare issues etc
So as I strolled the cliff top I was really drawn to follow a sign off the path to an ayurvedic Dr. Abin S.R at the S.M Ayurveda Panchakarma and Yoga Therapy Centre. He was busy seeing a somebody and so I waited outside for 20 minutes while he consulted a patient without any pressure to book treatment. Then when I finally had chance to meet him I felt I could trust him as he had clearest, purest eyes and glowing skin and radiated health. He was calm and open and asked health and personal questions with astute detail. He gave me some ayurvedic herbs for my stomach problems (one which tasted vile and one that smelt vile) and said to eat only plain rice for next day or two.
In consultation with him we decided it would be best for me to do booked a full body massage and Shirodhara treatment in which warm oil is poured onto the third eye/forehead and helps to alleviate sleeplessness and good for the mind and intuition.
See forthcoming post on Ayurveda for further information.
Sivananda Yoga with Vasu at Bohemium Masala
I felt much better by the evening and the next day I woke up full of life and headed to a Sivananda yoga class with Vasu at the Bohemium Masala which several people had recommended. The Shala is set in secluded gardens so you can listen to sounds of nature when you practice. I get there early to do half hour kriya meditation before class. Vasu has a melodic voice, almost singing through the surya namaskas. Sivananda takes a very different sequencing of postures to my usual vinyasa flow which I don't understand but I am happy to mix up my practice, especially with a good teacher. I also I appreciated Vasu working with my on Scorpion encouraging me to arch back more to find the balance. The class ended with nadi shodhana and kapalabhathi.
Varkala is yet another spot in India I would happily spend more time as has a wonderful vibe and overflowing with yoga and ayurveda. I hope to return sometime to do a full Panchakarma atleast 10 day treatment whereby can fully detox the body and undertake all the ayurvedic therapies.
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