"God is in the mountains. Impassive, immovable, jagged giants, seperating the celestial from the terrestial with eternal diagonal certainty. As if silently monitoring the beating heart of the creator from the universe's perfect birth. Stood in the thin air and the awe, one inhales God involuntarily acknowledging that we are but fragments of a whole, a higher thing. The mountains remind me of a place, as a servant to truth and wonder. Yes, God is in the mountains. Perhaps the pulpit too and even in the piety of an athiest's sigh. I don't know, but I feel him in the mountains."
Russell Brand, Booky Wook 2
From Rishikesh Josefina, Victor and I took the 17 hour, bumpy bus ride further north to McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala and settled into a cheap guesthouse with an amazing view over the green mountains and valley. Exhausted after the long journey we had a relaxing first afternoon, pottering around and getting the feel for the place. McLeod Ganj is where the Dalai Lama resides (although unfortunately he was not present on this visit), a place of exile for Tibetans and a pilgrimage spot for Buddhists. It's not somewhere people come to see stuff but more just to be and enjoy the energy of the mountains.
Tushita Retreat
Tushita Retreat
It is a peaceful place made up of just 3 streets lined with Tibetan handicrafts, restaurants, market stalls, political posters and adverts for all sorts of courses and classes. Our guesthouse was next door to Greens Hotel which became our local hang out with delicious Tibetan food (and yummy carrot cake) and to mix with fellow travellers. In the afternoon I went to OM Meditation for a yoga class and I never want to be disrespectful of others teaching but I was really disappointed. Anyway I breathed through it and it just made me grateful for all the incredible teachers I have back in London and that I have my own self practice which is with me wherever I go. A different Indian teacher was then lead a meditation class with chanting aum with attention on 3rd eye but I found myself zoning into own kriya exercises and again realised the power of self practice and that I have found what works best for me.
The next morning we went on a stroll to Upper Bagsu to visit another Argentinian lady Bernise who specialises in harnessing female energy and connecting with instinct of our wombs. She stayed in lovely place with colourful garden and views of mountains for just 150rupee/less than £2 a night - good to know if I come back to the area to stay for longer. See blog post Power of a Woman for details of the workshop we did with Bernise.
The next day we visited the Vipassana (10 day Buddhist silent retreat) centre which was set in beautiful forests. I haven't been drawn to undertake a vipassana as yet however if I was this would be lovely peaceful spot for it. Next to the Vipassana centre is the renowned Tushita retreat centre which hosts intoduction to Buddhism courses and Josefina was undertaking and said it was very good. I am interested in attending the course when I am back in India.
Dalai Lama's Residence
Before visting the temple I went into the Tibetan Museum and I was appalled to learn more about the Chinese invasion and inhumane brutality against Tibet; torturing people and destroying temples, scriptures and trying to stamp out their culture and identity. There is now more Chinese people than Tibetan people living in Tibet and there is a strong military presence. Martyrs (as young as 20) set themselves alight to raise awareness, families trek across the trecherous himalayas at night to escape and live in exile in India or Nepal.
When we see things on the news we can be disensitified and the awful magnitude of the situation doesn't sink in but when we see the consequences and gain greater understanding of the suffering we can feel more empathetic. The Tibetans I met, despite this treatment, are gracious, peaceful and spirited.
The Buddhist temple is understated on the outside with monks chanting, playing gongs, performing fire puja. I circle the temple seven times spinning the prayer wheels and chanting then go inside where greeted with a ornate golden Buddha and rich coloured wallpaper with intricate Mandalas. The art of Mandalas has been passed down for thousands of years for therapeutic meditation. I'm trying to learn more about Mandalas as I use visualisations in meditation and interested in the power of images which have had collective focus.
The following day I let it be a day for myself, my practise and enjoyed a super long, slow morning vinyasa flow practice and enjoy spending time writing in the sunshine overlooking the mountains.
Tibetan Contemporary Dance -Lion Man
That evening I went to see the infamous local dancer the Lion Man show which was held at a local primary school. He opened by sharing his story of being abused by the milatary in Tibet and then escaping across the snowy himalaya mountains, having to trek in the freezing night time to avoid being caught and then being put in prison. Then he started traditional, classical Tibetan dancing which was fluid and light before moving into more contemporary, experimental works. In one piece he came right up to each audience member fixatedly staring directly eye to eye without blinking, forehead touching and his sweat dripping onto you. This created atmosphere of interogation and invasion into your space and from a dance perspective it is interesting that it is very similar to ideas emnating from Europe/Canada.
Meditating in the Mountains
The next day I met Prateek, a lovely Indian from Rishikesh, for breakfast in Carpe Diem a cool rooftop cafe with views of the mountains. We then took a walk up further into mountains to the Bagsu waterfall. On the way it was wonderful to share our philosophies, our desire to live in the moment and find many points of connection. We may live different lifestyles, in different parts of the world but we shared same outlooks and love of the mountains as feel so close to God here.
As we walked we passed families relaxing by the river, washing clothes, children swimming. We took time to find spots to meditate together, love sharing with another person as enhances concentration and focus. We took in the sound of the waterfall and headed up to the notorious hippy party place Shiva Cafe for chai in the sunshine. On the way back we find a peaceful, shady grassy spot and I teach Prateek some yoga. Despite growing up in Rishikesh the home of yoga this is his first ever class! He has a very strong meditation practice soo easy to connect in, sync breath and flow together. Its wonderful experience to share yoga in the beautiful nature and to really breathe together. I am soo pleased that Prateek enjoyed it and has been continuing to do yoga!
Back in town we relax over lunch (yummy homemade pumpkin pasta at Khangsar guest house - such great food in this town!) then we watch the pink sunset before each heading of on our overnight buses to Delhi and then fly down to Goa to regroup with my travelling circus comrades. Its been brilliant travelling on my own, not that you are ever alone as you meet soo many people, but glad to see friend and catch up on each others adventures.
Russell Brand, Booky Wook 2
From Rishikesh Josefina, Victor and I took the 17 hour, bumpy bus ride further north to McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala and settled into a cheap guesthouse with an amazing view over the green mountains and valley. Exhausted after the long journey we had a relaxing first afternoon, pottering around and getting the feel for the place. McLeod Ganj is where the Dalai Lama resides (although unfortunately he was not present on this visit), a place of exile for Tibetans and a pilgrimage spot for Buddhists. It's not somewhere people come to see stuff but more just to be and enjoy the energy of the mountains.
Tushita Retreat
Tushita Retreat
It is a peaceful place made up of just 3 streets lined with Tibetan handicrafts, restaurants, market stalls, political posters and adverts for all sorts of courses and classes. Our guesthouse was next door to Greens Hotel which became our local hang out with delicious Tibetan food (and yummy carrot cake) and to mix with fellow travellers. In the afternoon I went to OM Meditation for a yoga class and I never want to be disrespectful of others teaching but I was really disappointed. Anyway I breathed through it and it just made me grateful for all the incredible teachers I have back in London and that I have my own self practice which is with me wherever I go. A different Indian teacher was then lead a meditation class with chanting aum with attention on 3rd eye but I found myself zoning into own kriya exercises and again realised the power of self practice and that I have found what works best for me.
The next morning we went on a stroll to Upper Bagsu to visit another Argentinian lady Bernise who specialises in harnessing female energy and connecting with instinct of our wombs. She stayed in lovely place with colourful garden and views of mountains for just 150rupee/less than £2 a night - good to know if I come back to the area to stay for longer. See blog post Power of a Woman for details of the workshop we did with Bernise.
The next day we visited the Vipassana (10 day Buddhist silent retreat) centre which was set in beautiful forests. I haven't been drawn to undertake a vipassana as yet however if I was this would be lovely peaceful spot for it. Next to the Vipassana centre is the renowned Tushita retreat centre which hosts intoduction to Buddhism courses and Josefina was undertaking and said it was very good. I am interested in attending the course when I am back in India.
Dalai Lama's Residence
Before visting the temple I went into the Tibetan Museum and I was appalled to learn more about the Chinese invasion and inhumane brutality against Tibet; torturing people and destroying temples, scriptures and trying to stamp out their culture and identity. There is now more Chinese people than Tibetan people living in Tibet and there is a strong military presence. Martyrs (as young as 20) set themselves alight to raise awareness, families trek across the trecherous himalayas at night to escape and live in exile in India or Nepal.
When we see things on the news we can be disensitified and the awful magnitude of the situation doesn't sink in but when we see the consequences and gain greater understanding of the suffering we can feel more empathetic. The Tibetans I met, despite this treatment, are gracious, peaceful and spirited.
The Buddhist temple is understated on the outside with monks chanting, playing gongs, performing fire puja. I circle the temple seven times spinning the prayer wheels and chanting then go inside where greeted with a ornate golden Buddha and rich coloured wallpaper with intricate Mandalas. The art of Mandalas has been passed down for thousands of years for therapeutic meditation. I'm trying to learn more about Mandalas as I use visualisations in meditation and interested in the power of images which have had collective focus.
The following day I let it be a day for myself, my practise and enjoyed a super long, slow morning vinyasa flow practice and enjoy spending time writing in the sunshine overlooking the mountains.
Tibetan Contemporary Dance -Lion Man
That evening I went to see the infamous local dancer the Lion Man show which was held at a local primary school. He opened by sharing his story of being abused by the milatary in Tibet and then escaping across the snowy himalaya mountains, having to trek in the freezing night time to avoid being caught and then being put in prison. Then he started traditional, classical Tibetan dancing which was fluid and light before moving into more contemporary, experimental works. In one piece he came right up to each audience member fixatedly staring directly eye to eye without blinking, forehead touching and his sweat dripping onto you. This created atmosphere of interogation and invasion into your space and from a dance perspective it is interesting that it is very similar to ideas emnating from Europe/Canada.
Meditating in the Mountains
The next day I met Prateek, a lovely Indian from Rishikesh, for breakfast in Carpe Diem a cool rooftop cafe with views of the mountains. We then took a walk up further into mountains to the Bagsu waterfall. On the way it was wonderful to share our philosophies, our desire to live in the moment and find many points of connection. We may live different lifestyles, in different parts of the world but we shared same outlooks and love of the mountains as feel so close to God here.
As we walked we passed families relaxing by the river, washing clothes, children swimming. We took time to find spots to meditate together, love sharing with another person as enhances concentration and focus. We took in the sound of the waterfall and headed up to the notorious hippy party place Shiva Cafe for chai in the sunshine. On the way back we find a peaceful, shady grassy spot and I teach Prateek some yoga. Despite growing up in Rishikesh the home of yoga this is his first ever class! He has a very strong meditation practice soo easy to connect in, sync breath and flow together. Its wonderful experience to share yoga in the beautiful nature and to really breathe together. I am soo pleased that Prateek enjoyed it and has been continuing to do yoga!
Back in town we relax over lunch (yummy homemade pumpkin pasta at Khangsar guest house - such great food in this town!) then we watch the pink sunset before each heading of on our overnight buses to Delhi and then fly down to Goa to regroup with my travelling circus comrades. Its been brilliant travelling on my own, not that you are ever alone as you meet soo many people, but glad to see friend and catch up on each others adventures.
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