Nepal: Never Ending Peace And Love

Kathmandu

We were lucky to arrive in Kathmadu as the city was alive gearing up for Divali, the Hindu celebration of light. Fairylights adourened every buidling, candles lit up the pavements alongiside brilliant bright painted decorations and bright orange flower garlands hung from doorways awnings and even the dogs and cows which freely wander the streets. Our senses were awakened; with car horns in constant conversation, deep wafts of incense, vivid coloured prayer flags fluttering in the wind, dense smog tickling the back of our throats, fireworks cracking, dogs barking and animated chit chatter. It felt magical to be part of this vibrant buzz of excitement, which united this sprawling, poor, polluted city and unite in joyous celebration.
The next day we visited some of Kathmandu's Temples starting with the Buddhist Temple Swayambhu located up high in the hills, overlooking the vast city. It was a peaceful place, other than the playful monkey, and I loved the constant, reassuring hum of the mantra Om mane padme hum which is said to embody all the teachings of the Buddha and which engraved spinning prayer wheels.

We then went to the Hindu temple Pashuputi were we played silent witness to the traditional cremation ceremony and dissolving of ashes in the holy river which leads to the ganges. It was a shock to be confronted by death but it somehow felt like the ultimate act of faith as rather than being sad it was a peaceful release from the physical body freeing the soul to live on.

Lastly we went to the heart of Kathmandu, Hanuman-Dhoka Durbar Square, which is the oldest part of the city and combines beautfiuffly ornate Hindu and Buddhist temples and dieties. The intricate, ornate wooden engraved temples are a testament of dedication to the higher and having two religions hand in hand is a sign of Nepal's open, welcoming nature.

Pokhara

From Kathmandu we caught an early bus to Pokhara, the long 7hr bumpy ride took us through small villages where the Divali celebrations continued in full swing with groups dancing in the streets, children singing traditional songs to shopkeepers for money and people playing cards. Nepal has a huge, friendly heart even the road signs are touching 'A heartfelt, warm welcome..' and the lorries and coaches are decorated in vivid colours, Om signs, Namaste and dieties. The people are happy, go over and beyond to help and are so trusting they never ask for payment in advance.

It's sunny afternoon when we arrive and take the chance to practise yoga down by the mountain lake with the sound of the local music in the background, idyllic. In the evening we visit a truly local haunt for the first of many yummy dal bhat meal.

Ghorepani Trek in the Annupurnas

Another early start to head off on a 5 day trek in the Annupurna range.  Our journey begins with a crazy drive winding through the mountains with a driver who was unreassuringly non chalent about the steep slopping edges! We caught our first sight of one of Nepal's 3 holy mountains Fish Tail, it's hard to comprehend the enourmous scale of the horizon but utterly breathtaking.

The trek starts in the valley along the roaring, crystal clear river, passing through farms and the hillside carved into paddy fields and en route with donkeys and the superhuman sherpas who transport oil and produce up the mountains. We powered the walk in 21/2 hours and stayed and relaxed at a tea house. Up early doors and trek for 3 hours steep upwards in the hot sun, it's hard work but love the physical challenge, finding rhthym with breath and pace of steps in moving meditation. Then we head into the jungle, crossing creaky wooden bridges across waterfalls and through old,mystical, mossy covered trees. After a final push upwards after 71/2 hrs we make it to Ghorepani Tea House to stay the night. We celebrated with beers and rum and hot chocolate. The 3rd day we get up before dawn at 4.15am to hike up Poon Hill under the amazing stars and with the cold air in our lungs. From Poon Hill we watched the sun rise over one mountain range and hitting the magnificant Annurpurnas and glowing on the snow capped peaks, totally mesmorising. 14 of the world's mountains are over 8,000m, 9 are in Nepal and we could see 3! I always feel calm, at peace and grateful when surrounded by nature of such incredible scale and beauty as it reminds me how small I am and the miracle of existence and being there.

We carried on up towards Tadapni and realised just how high we were when a plane flew way beneath us! In a rather surreal attempt to keep up morale and energy our lovely guide Kapil played music on their mobiles Acorn, Shakira and to our dismay James Blunt 'Your beautiful'. The next day we trekked for 6hours from Tadapani to Saulyi Bazar and that night Kapil gave us an insight into Nepal's recent turbellant history and into it's socio-economic challenges. Kapil grew up in the civil war (which was started by the Maoists who demanded that Nepal should not be run by royalty and for a fairer distribution of taxes etc) and was caught by the police who electrocuted him and his family in bid to get them to admit they were Maoists. I felt even more inspired by the hardworking nature, happy and spirited attitude of the Nepalese given its a country of poverty, political unease and still has a caste system dividing 72 ethnic groups.